Around the Golden Horn

Published: 19/12/2011 - Filed under: Home » Archive » 2011 » December 2011/January 2012 » Special Reports » Home » Archive » 2011 » December 2011/January 2012 »

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Turkey stands with one foot planted in Europe and the other rooted in Asia, striking a perfect balance between two worlds. Nowhere is this more evident than in Istanbul, a city at the core of this continental divide but united by a rich history and culture. Walking its streets, you’ll see young women with Prada purses clutched in their brightly manicured hands as often as you’ll find plump grandmotherly figures in modest head scarves. Here, you can smoke a hookah and sip a glass of milky-white raki, or order an appletini while dancing the night away in a crowded Taksim club.

Straddling continents as it does, Istanbul’s location has helped make Ataturk Airport one of the preferred transfer hubs between North America and the Middle East. And while it’s hardly a city that can be seen in one day, Turkish Airlines passengers connecting in Istanbul can take advantage of a free city tour, courtesy of the carrier. The offer is extended to those North American travelers continuing on to another country who have a minimum six-hour layover (10 hours for economy-class passengers).

But you’d be making a big mistake if you believed this would be enough time to really get a taste of Istanbul. At most, it’s best to look at it as just an amuse-bouche before the feast. To really dive into everything Istanbul has to offer, start by booking a room at the most exclusive address in town, the Four Seasons Istanbul at the Bosphorus.The 170-room hotel occupies a nineteenth-century Ottoman palace with two modern wings attached. The open terrace overlooks its namesake, the waterway that marks the divide between the city’s European and Asian sides. In addition to spacious rooms, the hotel boasts some of the best Turkish delight in the city. Be sure to order a Turkish coffee at breakfast to accompany the treat.

As you begin exploring the city, you’ll find it’s easy and affordable to get between most areas. Taxi (taksi) cabs are plentiful, safe and fairly inexpensive, but best of all they have just abandoned the policy of charging double for late-night fares. As with taking a cab in any city, though, make sure your driver starts the meter from the moment you take off to avoid any confusion about payment at the end of your ride. The city has efficient bus, trolley and subway systems, as well, including the Galata Tünel, the world’s second-oldest subway after the London Underground.

But your first stop in Istanbul should be Sultanahmet, a neighborhood that’s bursting with history. In fact, the area is so dense with places of interest, you’ll be able to check off several days’ worth of sites within a short walk of one another.

Hagia Sofia (Aya Sophia)

While this building dates to AD 537, it required multiple attempts and several centuries to perfect its 105-foot-wide dome. Christian mosaics adorn the walls inside, attesting to a time when it was the religion’s greatest church. But when Mehmet the Conqueror overtook the city, the church was converted to a mosque, and Muslim influences, including eight oversized Arabic medallions, also remain today. Meanwhile, several pillars from the Greek Temple of Artemis (one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World) were also incorporated into the structure, creating a unique collage of Greek, Christian and Muslim religious significance brought together in one building.

Sultan Ahmet Mosque (Blue Mosque)

When you walk out of the Aya Sofya, refresh yourself with a cup of fresh-squeezed pomegranate juice from one of the ubiquitous street vendors and stroll across the gardens to the Sultan Ahmet Mosque. As you approach, you’ll notice its exterior is much more impressive than the Aya Sofya, but you may find yourself a bit underwhelmed by the same comparison once inside; at 1,000 years younger than the Aya Sofya, it lacks the layers of detail that its predecessor boasts. However, it’s still worth a visit to take in the working mosque’s stained-glass windows and intricate blue tile work, from which it takes its colliquial name. It’s best to avoid visiting on Fridays, however, as this is the Muslim holy day and entry lines will be longer.

Basilica Cistern

This underground Byzantine cistern, located across the road from the Aya Sofya, could once hold enough water to sustain the entire city during a two-month siege, but today its been mostly drained to allow tourists inside. Built by Emperor Justinian in the sixth century, the first impression is that the cavern’s 336 limestone columns appear to go on indefinitely. Take some time to explore the dimly-lit space and be sure to make a wish when you find the “Teardrop Column” on the left-hand side. Deeper in, you’ll find two columns mounted atop twisted Medusa heads. Some historians believe that this graphic symbolism was meant to drown the old gods beneath the city and pave the way for Christianity.

Topkapi Palace

On a beautiful day, there are few better places to visit than the royal palace and its four landscaped courtyards. First built in the fifteenth century, many of the leaders that followed were inspired to leave their own mark on the complex, resulting in an organic architectural timeline within the grounds. The museum highlight is undoubtedly the harem, the gilded cage in which the sultan’s wives and children lived and rarely, if ever, left. Visitors must purchase an additional ticket to explore this area, but it’s well worth the extra 15 Turkish lire (about $8.50). The House of Relics is also interesting, if not dubious in its claims. Inside, it is said to display such authentic religious artifacts as the staff of Moses and hair from the beard of the Prophet Muhammad.

Grand Bazaar

The Grand Bazaar is your one-stop souvenir shopping destination, but it’s so much more than just a collection of knick-knacks. Dating to the fifteenth century, this covered market is among the world’s oldest and largest, with 12 gates, 60 streets, 5,000 shops and as many as 400,000 daily visitors. If you’re traveling with someone, it’s best to establish a meeting point that you both know, like the hotel, because if you lose each other here, odds are you won’t be able to find one another again amidst all the chaos. Even tour guides can have a difficult time navigating its labyrinthine aisles without getting turned around, but it’s all part of the fun if you have the time to spare.

The space is more or less divided according to the goods being sold, but there’s certainly overlap. You should spend some time wandering the carpet section where sellers will lay out their wares and chat you up over a cup of Turkish tea. Don’t be afraid to accept a cup, as this is simply part of Turkish hospitality and by no means indicates an obligation to make a purchase. In fact, it’s a wonderful way to interact with the local community, especially once a playful bout of bargaining begins.

Ca?alo?lu Bath

When in Rome, do as the Romans do; but of course, this is all about Ottoman indulgences. Built in 1740, the hamam has been operating ever since, and although it started off as an authentic public bath house, today it caters mainly to tourists. Don’t be put off by that fact, though, since it’s still a memorable experience that’s sure to be all the more necessary after a few days of trecking about Istanbul. Sit back, soak up the steam and admire the architecture in unrivaled comfort.

In late October, a 7.2 magnitude earthquake devastated Van, a city in the southeastern corner of Turkey. Although nearly 800 miles from Istanbul (which was not within the quake zone), you may still wish to offer support during your visit. You can do so by contacting the Turkish Red Crescent or visiting www.kizilay.org.tr/english for more information.

By Ally Miola