Your Singapore

Published: 16/11/2011 - Filed under: Home » Archive » 2011 » November 2011 » Destinations » Home » Features »

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Away from the shopping malls of Orchard Road and the interchangeable bars along the Singapore River, there is much to discover in the Lion City.

In the past few years, Singapore has become much more lively, with two casinos – branded as “integrated resorts” by the government and bringing more life (and money) into the city-state – and several excellent museums and galleries. Singapore’s location at the heart of Southeast Asia means its cultural institutions thrum with artists from the region, making it a one-stop place to sample this part of the world.

Singapore is the crossroads for natural beauty as well. Just beyond the skyscrapers is an amazing wetland reserve that serves as a global pit stop for migratory birds. Human migrants have also left their mark, with historic Arab and Indian quarters blending heritage with modern commerce.

For the business traveler with a few hours to kill, Singapore is a surprising place to explore. And a few hours is all you need. Because of its compact size, getting around is fairly quick. Taxis are inexpensive compared with cities such as London, while the local transit system of trains and buses is air conditioned and easy to navigate.

Asian Civilizations Museum

Located in a restored 19th-century building on the banks of the Singapore River, a five-minute walk from Raffles Place MRT station, this museum is a gem. Its 11 galleries house more than 1,300 artifacts from the region and cover the civilizations of China, South, South East and West Asia. The South East gallery in particular is well worth a visit; it features the many traditional cultures of the area. The collection includes bronze and ceramic pieces that date back to 600BC.

The Mary and Philbert Chin gallery focuses on jewellery and textiles, while in Gallery 4a you can soak up examples of the performing arts. Listen to Javanese gamelan music and have a look at the masks and puppets used in dance and shadow puppetry from Cambodia to Indonesia.

Open Mon 1:00 PM-7:00 PM, Tues-Sun 9:00 AM-7:00 PM (except Fri until 9:00 PM). Entry is S$8 ($6.25). 1 Empress Place; tel +65 6332 2982; acm.org.sg

Art Science Museum

Part of the Marina Bay Sands integrated resort, the giant project owned by Las Vegas Sands Corporation, the Art Science Museum has played host to several excellent exhibitions. It has more than 50,000 square feet of gallery space in a lotus-inspired building designed by architect Moshe Safdie, and specializes in traveling collections from around the world.

Currently the museum is hosting “Titanic: The Artifact Exhibition” through April 2012. Nine exhibits and 275 artifacts tell the story of the great ship from conception through her tragic maiden voyage 100 years ago. “Cartier Time Art: Mechanics of Passion” runs from Dec. 14 to Feb. 12 and features the largest collection of Cartier timepieces ever assembled – 170 in all, including vintage pieces such as the 1911 Santos wristwatch, as well as contemporary pieces like the Santos-Dumont skeleton carbon watch. Marina Bay Sands is located downtown, a ten- minute walk from Promenade MRT station.

Open 10:00 AM –10:00 PM daily. Entry is S$14-S$25 ($11-$20). 10 Bayfront Avenue; tel +65 6688 8826; marinabaysands.com

Little India

The heart of Singapore’s ethnic community, Little India offers a slice of that culture in largely Chinese-dominated Singapore – on weekends it is packed with Indian and Bangladeshi workers determined to relax on their day off (it’s ludicrously crowded on Sundays). Little India and Farrer Park are the closest MRT stations. By taxi, ask to be dropped at Mustafa Center or Tekka Market.

Little India dates back to the founding of Singapore in the early 19th century. Different ethnic groups were allocated different zones and the South Asian community was given the streets along Serangoon Road. Religious buildings line the main drag – the Sri Srinivasa Perumal Temple, built in 1855, is the starting point for devotees to embark upon their two-and-a-half mile walk during the Thaipusam festival, while the Abdul Gafoor Mosque, built in 1859, features beautiful South Asian architecture. The Thai Buddhist Sakya Muni Buddha Gaya Temple has a 50-foot tall Buddha, while the Leong San See Temple is dedicated to the Chinese Goddess of Mercy.

Alongside the temples are rows of peeling shophouses, with every other store blasting out Indian pop music. Wander the side roads and soak up the atmosphere, popping into any of the excellent restaurants en route. Avoid the shops that hawk tourist trinkets and head for the Mustafa Center (145 Syed Alwi Road), a 24-hour emporium selling everything from soup to saris.

Visit lisha.org.sg, mustafa.com.sg

Kampong Glam

In the 19th century, this quiet area of beautifully aging shophouses was where the Sultan of Singapore resided in his palace. The neighborhood that grew up around him became the heart of the Malay and Arab communities. The palace still stands but has been turned into a Malay Heritage Center that is being redeveloped (it is due to reopen in June next year). Lots of local color remains, though you will have to dodge the souvenir shops.

The Masjid Sultan Mosque is a national monument. The original dates back to 1824, but the current one was built in 1928 and has a prayer hall that can hold 5,000 people. Some parts are open to non-Muslims during the day. After visiting, wander around the neighborhood – for the spiritually inclined, there is a well-stocked Islamic bookstore, Wardah, that specializes in English books. There are also many popular restaurants with outdoor courtyards that serve Malay and Middle Eastern cuisine. Many seem to have jumped on the shisha bandwagon, so you can grab a hookah pipe and enjoy a smoke.

Bugis MRT is about a ten-minute walk from the heart of Kampong Glam, but a taxi to Sultan Mosque is the most direct option.

Visit kampongglam.org.sg

Waterloo Street

Forget Chinatown — the merchants have turned it into a tourist trap selling tacky geegaws with little or no relation to the area. For a real feel of what a Chinese enclave feels like, head for the pedestrian mall at Waterloo Street, less than a five-minute walk from Bugis MRT.

At the heart of the area is the Kwan Im Thong Hood Cho Temple, dedicated to the Goddess of Mercy. It dates back to 1884 but has been rebuilt since and is usually crowded with local devotees seeking good luck. Next to it is the Sri Krishnan temple – even though this is for Hindus, non-Hindu Chinese devotees still visit and offer incense. You’ll also find makeshift stalls, itinerant street performers and medicine peddlers. Colorful and authentic, this is a place to soak in a very different Singapore.

Esplanade – Theatres on the Bay

If you enjoy the performing arts, Esplanade – Theatres on the Bay is the place to be. It’s about a ten-minute walk from City Hall or Esplanade MRT stations. It opened in 2002, and because of its spiky external cladding, locals dubbed it “the durian,” after the beloved but stinky Southeast Asian fruit. The site is surrounded by the quiet Esplanade Park and is adjacent to the wide promenade along the river. The complex consists of concert halls, an auditorium and a gallery. Shows change frequently and you’ll find an eclectic mix of local and international productions spanning music, theatre and dance.

There are frequent outdoor events at night, drawing a relaxed local crowd who hang out by the riverside afterwards. Bars and eateries along the Esplanade pull in a livelier crowd, making it a great alternative to Boat Quay.

1 Esplanade Drive; tel +65 6828 8377; esplanade.com

Dempsey Hill

Former army barracks are not usually popular attractions, but Dempsey Hill makes its military past charming. Once a British Army outpost, Singapore’s Ministry of Defence took over after the forces left and, when it too moved out, 18 old-fashioned apartment blocks were left. They have since been transformed into a dining and retail hub, set amidst greenery a short distance from Orchard Road.

The shops at Dempsey Hill sell furniture, antiques, art, carpets and clothing. Come in the afternoon to browse and escape the monotony of Orchard Road. Many great restaurants can be found clustered together -– there are close to 30 bars and eateries in the area, from French and Italian to Japanese and Mexican. Try Samy’s Curry (samyscurry.com) – a former army cookhouse, the peeling paint and rundown ambience is part of its charm, but what keeps diners returning are the good South Indian dishes, washed down with a beer under a creaking fan on the veranda.

Dempsey Road; dempseyhill.com

Sim Lim Square

Within walking distance of Bugis and Little India MRT stations, Sim Lim Square is nerd nirvana – six stories of electronics and computer stores packed into a neon-lit warren, where window displays of circuit boards sit next to whiteboards with the latest RAM prices scribbled on them. Singaporeans come to buy components and build their own computers because of the competitive prices. It used to be a hotbed of pirated software, but regular raids and – more likely – online piracy mean the place is mostly legit now, though you can find knock-offs of popular brands.

The mall is crowded with people intent on buying and selling hardware – prices go down the further up you go, so skip the first floor. Head further into the maze and you’ll find tiny shops specializing in obscure audio equipment or security hardware. It’s fun just to wander through but if you are shopping seriously, go in with the exact specifications and be prepared to bargain a little.

Open 10:30 AM – 9:00 PM daily. Sim Lim Square, 1 Rochor Canal Road; tel +65 6338 3859; simlimsquare.com.sg

Holland Village

Laid-back Holland Village is a cluster of shophouses and slightly shabby malls that is a favorite of expatriates and perfect for picking up souvenirs. Don’t worry about getting ripped off – the shopkeepers apply the same “expat tax” to all their customers. Lim’s Art and Crafts, on the second floor of Holland Village Shopping Center, is the largest shop for Asian tat, where you can find everything from durian-topped toothpicks to antique knock-offs. The mall also has plenty of small shops that are fun to walk around. There are boutique spas and nail bars, or you can treat yourself to a Chinese acupressure foot rub.

Around the back of Holland Village are rows of restaurants, from Vietnamese to Lebanese. The outdoor food court has a good range of local cuisine, and the coffee shops across the road serve the famous katong laksa, with chopped up noodles and an indecently rich and creamy coconut sauce. Holland Village is also a relaxed alternative for nightlife, with late-night coffee shops, wine bars and pubs. Wala Wala (31 Lorong Mambong) is one of the oldest and liveliest. Holland Village and Buona Vista are the closest MRT stations on the newly-opened Circle Line, or a cab from downtown takes less than ten minutes.

Sungei Buloh Wetland Reserve

A 40-minute drive northwest of the center, Sungei Buloh is one of Singapore’s natural treasures – covering 321 acres, it is the country’s last remaining mangrove swamp and a must-see for bird watchers and nature lovers. The area is important because it is a stopover for migratory birds. From September to March, Sungei Buloh is a-flutter with visitors from as far away as Siberia. It offers one of the best opportunities in the world to observe the mangroves up close.

The reserve offers four main environments for observing fauna – the mangroves, mud flats, freshwater ponds and back mangrove. Animals you are likely to see include monitor lizards, mudskippers, mud lobsters and birds such as plovers, egrets and herons. There are 3km, 5km and 7km trails that will take two, three and five hours to walk, respectively. Take a guided tour to help you get the most out of the area – there is a free one on Saturdays at 9:30 AM, or book one a month in advance through the website.

Open 7:30 AM – 7:00 PM (Sun from 7:00 AM). Entry is free Mon-Fri; Sat-Sun S$1 (78 cents). 301 Neo Tiew Crescent; tel +65 6794 1401; sbwr.org.sg